Cerro de Hielo
Ice Station Superior
North Shore MN
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Orient Bay Area
Crag: Orient Bay
Rating: WI5, M6, 70m
Location: This engaging route is located on the Taj Mahwall in the South Loop of the Ice Palace Area. A fixed line on a summer route was in place 10m to its left and the route starts behind and left of an enormous block detached from the main wall.
Description: P1). WI4+, M6, 35m. The first ascent party avoided the 1" thick unprotectable ice slab by starting on its left margin and ascending mixed terrain for 15m until thicker ice presented itself below a thin, technical and steep section. Steep ice climbing leads to a station protected by the roof to the right of the pillar.
P2). WI5, 35m. Tackle the free-standing pillar to gain a section of easy climbing over steps and cauliflower ice which leads to the final vertical headwall ice in the center of the face.
Gear: For the mixed start, a small assortment of knifeblades and angles, 3-4 cams to 1.5 inches and small stoppers were used. Ballnuts were handy as well. For the ice climbing, a full rack of screws including 2-3 stubbies were used.
First Ascent: Shawn Tracy and Garth Willis, Jan. 2006
Report by: Shawn Tracy