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Orient Bay Area

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Parsec

Crag: Orient Bay

Rating: M7, 50m

Route Description
Parsec: [pAr´sec] In astronomy, basic unit of length for measuring interstellar and intergalactic distances. The distance in parsecs of an object from the earth is the reciprocal of the parallax of the object.

This is the mixed version of the rarely forming freestanding pillar of Parallax. It is the first route you see when driving north on Hwy 11 from Nipigon. If it is snowing and the plows are out, go past the climb and park at a pull off with a gate on the west side of the road and walk back south to the wide break in the trees. Hike down the power line until you see the flagging tape trail heading off to the climb.

The route follows an ever-steepening, right-facing dihedral and features thin, delicate climbing to reach the left side of the Parallax dagger. Bring 10 Quickdraws for the bolts (8+2 for anchor) and 4-5 screws for upper ice.

NOTE: There are bolted anchors on the Left at 30m and at 50m. With a 60M rope you can lower off the first station after doing the business or climb the remaining 20m of Grade 3+ ice to the upper anchor. The entire climb can be done with 1 60m rope.

Descent: Two rappels will get you back to the ground.

First Ascent: James Loverige, Jen Stewart-Grimes, Dec. 12, 2004

Report by: James Loveridge

Entered: 2005-01-12